Tuesday, September 11, 2012

Shibby Engineering EGR Valve + Cooler Delete Kit Install Instructions

The following instructions are from STRAPT Performance.  Since these are not from the official manufacture.  We strive to make these instructions as accurate as possible so please keep this in mind as different model years have variables and there maybe additional ways to achieve the following procedure.  (09.5-12 kit shown)   

Use this more as a point of reference rather than actual step by step guide.  The parts and truck used in this exercise is for OFF-ROAD use only.


Here are the parts as it comes in the kit.  You can also check out the kit on our website HERE.


Left to Right:  EGR block off plates, located at the top of your intake horn. EGR cooler block off plates that mounts to your exhaust manifold.  (Bottom) Cooler adapter that allows the coolant hose to replace the cooler.  (Top) Bypass cooler hose.  (Top Middle)  Cooler hose adapter that threads into the back of your head, which completes the bypass hose circuit. 

Tools needed:  8mm, 10mm, 15mm both shallow and deep. Some scrap metal to remount the transmission dipstick and some pipe sealant.
(Not pictured is the removal of the Crank case vent valve and the little engine cover towards the front of the motor that covers the EGR tube.)


Since Shibby chooses to leave the cooler plates in raw form we decide to give ours a little color.  For this truck we used Cast Iron coat from Rustoluem. You can choose any color you like, just make sure it has a high heat threshold. 



Let’s identify a few key components for the removal procedure. This is the EGR valve picture located on the driver side of the vehicle.



EGR Cooler on the passenger side of the vehicle.



Now that we’ve identified the key parts let’s start the removal process.  Start by removing the connectors at the egr valve and the temperatur sensor.  Zip tie those out of the way.  Next we need to remove the pipe running from the EGR valve to the cooler.  Do this by removing the 11mm bolts that hold the clamp together.

  

Special note:  There is a small 8mm bolt on the very front of the motor that holds the tube down. Remove this and reinstall.

 

Here is a picture of the tube removed



With the tube removed you now have access to remove your EGR valve.  



Install the two aluminum EGR plates, with appropriate gaskets supplied.




The EGR cooler is next. At this point you may consider removing the entire air cleaner as this gives you a little better access to the mounting bolts on the cooler.

We found that taking off most of the little things on the cooler helps give you access to the 15mm bolts holding the cooler to the exhaust manifold.  This includes removing all bolts holding the exhaust shields, the transmission dipstick tube and the inlet to the EGR cooler.


 

Heat shields removed. Now you should have a little bit better access to the 2 x 15mm nuts that hold the inlet housing to the exhaust manifold.  You will also need to remove the 4x 10mm bolts holding the inlet housing to the cooler.




With the inlet housing out we can move onto the back 2x 15mm in the very back and the 2x15mm bolts that are hidden under the cooler that mount it to the side of the exhaust manifold.  This is where removing the air intake system comes in handy.



Starting to look cleaner now??


 
Picture of the two 15mm bolts that mount to the side of the cooler, very tight fit!



We couldn’t get a picture of the 2x 15mm nuts that hold the back of the cooler to the manifold, but just feel your way back there and a small extension will make short work of it.  (NOTE)  When you’re ready to finally remove the cooler just wiggle both inlet and outlet lines at the cooler and they will just pop out.  There will be a decent amount of coolant left in the cooler, if you choose, you may dump this into the overflow bottle to replenish any lost during the removal process.  Coolant will leak out but just top off your radiator with Mopar coolant or Distilled water if the contents of the cooler were not enough to refill.

Here is a shot with the cooler removed. You can also see the last 2x 15mm stud’s that hold the cooler to the manifold.



Next step is to remove the inlet adapter at the head. This can be removed with a 1” open end wrench. 




Your kit came with a new adapter that has a barb style fitting to it. Install this in place of the old adapter. Put a little pipe sealant on it for added sealing.




There is a special adapter designed by Shibby that holds the new bypass house to the metal inlet pipe. Installation is straight forward.




Now install the supplied hose and the exhaust cover plates including the gaskets as scene in this picture.  Be sure to use two washers per stud on the exhaust manifold.  This aids in distributing the clamp force as well as allowing for expansion/contraction of the plate below the fastener.  Another tip is to tighten the hose clamps down with a quarter inch ratchet as usually using only a screwdriver will not allow them to fully seal.




There is one thing that Shibby does not supply and that is a Transmission dipstick bracket. The EGR cooler bracket can remain installed in the truck to keep this mounting point or if you choose you can do like we did with some scrap metal, and just bend  up a new bracket to remount it to the head.



That’s it!!!!  Go over fastners on all plates and clamps one last time checking for proper torque.  Inspect engine bay and clear of all spare parts/tools and get ready to start the truck.  Fire up the truck, while it is warming up look for any exhaust leaks, noises and any coolant leaks from the parts installed.  After a few driving cycles (5-10) recheck torque on EGR cooler delete plates as some thermal cycling may relax the gaskets and lessen the clamping load.

As always, if you have any questions about this installation or would like to purchase any other products, feel free to check out our website at http://www.straptperformance.com or give us a call at (602)773-6668.


Cheers and happy mobbing!

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