The following instructions are from
STRAPT Performance. Since these are not
from the official manufacture. We strive to make these instructions as accurate
as possible so please keep this in mind
as different model years have variables and there maybe additional ways to
achieve the following procedure. (09.5-12 kit shown)
Use this more as a point of reference rather
than actual step by step guide. The parts and truck used in this exercise is for OFF-ROAD use
only.
Here are the parts as it comes in the
kit. You can also check out the kit on our website HERE.
Left to Right: EGR block off plates, located at the top of
your intake horn. EGR cooler block off plates that mounts to your exhaust
manifold. (Bottom) Cooler adapter that
allows the coolant hose to replace the cooler. (Top) Bypass cooler hose. (Top Middle) Cooler hose adapter that threads into the back
of your head, which completes the bypass hose circuit.
Tools needed: 8mm, 10mm, 15mm both shallow and deep. Some
scrap metal to remount the transmission dipstick and some pipe sealant.
(Not pictured is the removal of the
Crank case vent valve and the little engine cover towards the front of the
motor that covers the EGR tube.)
Since Shibby chooses to leave the
cooler plates in raw form we decide to give ours a little color. For this truck we used Cast Iron coat from
Rustoluem. You can choose any color you like, just make sure it has a high heat
threshold.
Let’s identify a few key components
for the removal procedure. This is the EGR valve picture located on the driver
side of the vehicle.
EGR Cooler on the passenger side of
the vehicle.
Now that we’ve
identified the key parts let’s start the removal process. Start by removing the connectors at the egr
valve and the temperatur sensor. Zip tie
those out of the way. Next we need to
remove the pipe running from the EGR valve to the cooler. Do this by removing the 11mm bolts that hold
the clamp together.
Special note: There is a small 8mm bolt on the very front of
the motor that holds the tube down. Remove this and reinstall.
Here is a picture of the tube removed
With the tube removed you now have
access to remove your EGR valve.
Install the two
aluminum EGR plates, with appropriate gaskets supplied.
The EGR cooler is next. At this point
you may consider removing the entire air cleaner as this gives you a little
better access to the mounting bolts on the cooler.
We found that taking off most of the
little things on the cooler helps give you access to the 15mm bolts holding the
cooler to the exhaust manifold. This
includes removing all bolts holding the exhaust shields, the transmission
dipstick tube and the inlet to the EGR cooler.
Heat shields removed. Now you should
have a little bit better access to the 2 x 15mm nuts that hold the inlet
housing to the exhaust manifold. You
will also need to remove the 4x 10mm bolts holding the inlet housing to the
cooler.
With the inlet housing out we can
move onto the back 2x 15mm in the very back and the 2x15mm bolts that are
hidden under the cooler that mount it to the side of the exhaust manifold. This is where removing the air intake system
comes in handy.
Starting to look cleaner now??
Picture of the two 15mm bolts that
mount to the side of the cooler, very tight fit!
We couldn’t get a picture of the 2x
15mm nuts that hold the back of the cooler to the manifold, but just feel your
way back there and a small extension will make short work of it. (NOTE) When
you’re ready to finally remove the cooler just wiggle both inlet and outlet
lines at the cooler and they will just pop out. There will be a decent amount of coolant left
in the cooler, if you choose, you may dump this into the overflow bottle to
replenish any lost during the removal process.
Coolant will leak out but just top off your radiator with Mopar coolant
or Distilled water if the contents of the cooler were not enough to refill.
Here is a shot with the cooler
removed. You can also see the last 2x 15mm stud’s that hold the cooler to the
manifold.
Next step is to remove the inlet
adapter at the head. This can be removed with a 1” open end wrench.
Your kit came with a new adapter that
has a barb style fitting to it. Install this in place of the old adapter. Put a
little pipe sealant on it for added sealing.
There is a special adapter designed
by Shibby that holds the new bypass house to the metal inlet pipe. Installation
is straight forward.
Now install the supplied hose and the
exhaust cover plates including the gaskets as scene in this picture. Be sure to use two washers per stud on the
exhaust manifold. This aids in
distributing the clamp force as well as allowing for expansion/contraction of
the plate below the fastener. Another
tip is to tighten the hose clamps down with a quarter inch ratchet as usually
using only a screwdriver will not allow them to fully seal.
There is one thing that Shibby does
not supply and that is a Transmission dipstick bracket. The EGR cooler bracket
can remain installed in the truck to keep this mounting point or if you choose
you can do like we did with some scrap metal, and just bend up a new bracket to remount it to the head.
That’s it!!!! Go over fastners on all plates and clamps one
last time checking for proper torque.
Inspect engine bay and clear of all spare parts/tools and get ready to
start the truck. Fire up the truck,
while it is warming up look for any exhaust leaks, noises and any coolant leaks
from the parts installed. After a few
driving cycles (5-10) recheck torque on EGR cooler delete plates as some
thermal cycling may relax the gaskets and lessen the clamping load.
As always, if you have any questions about this installation or would like to purchase any other products, feel free to check out our website at http://www.straptperformance.com or give us a call at (602)773-6668.
Cheers and happy mobbing!